Sofia Bulgaria : Our favourite city in Eastern Europe

 
There’s a city in Eastern Europe that everyone needs to get to ASAP. Or maybe not, don’t want to ruin it.

 

We had arrived in Bulgaria, sour from our terrible bedbug experience in Montenegro and constant disappointments in Albania. Bulgaria had A LOT of pressure to impress us. Expectations were high and first up was its capital : Sofia.

 

Let me tell you right now, I fell in love immediately. It’s a good sized city (about a 2 million population) that makes it big enough to explore and have tons to do but small enough to avoid getting annoyed. Great restaurants, shops, neighbourhoods ; this is a city that begs a weekend visit.

 

Need more convincing? Here are our reasons we loved Sofia so much.

 

It’s friggin pretty.

 

A friend once told me to beware of a city whose first attribute is its looks ; it usually means the city is boring. I beg to differ. After spending weeks in Albania, full of litter everywhere, it was amazing to be in a city that looked so damn good. The fresh September air made for beautiful strolls. Flowers are everywhere. Restaurants are adorable. Recycling bins are also existent (believe me, a rarity in Eastern Europe). This city is friggin pretty.

 

 

It oozes effortless cool.

 

Sofia is like that cool girl in university who doesn’t wear lots of makeup but still manages to look stunning while listening to Them Crooked Vultures on her oversized headphones. Catch my drift? This city may seem like a classic town full of churches and museums but dig around and you’ll find a cool attitude in the streets. Take a stroll on Tsar Ivan Shishman street to get a good feel of funky cafés and even funkier shops.

 

 

It’s a perfect base for daytrips.

 
One of Sofia’s perks is its accessibility to gorgeous regions. Buses are reliable and cheap, what’s not to love! We were able to have getaways in more remote areas without enduring long horrible bus trips. Bansko, Malyovitsa, the Rila Mountains, these were all highlights of our trip to Bulgaria, all about 1 or 2 hours away from Sofia. 

 

 

There’s WIFI, everywhere. Seriously.

This may sound like a minor detail but the amount of wifi access in Sofia is mindblowing. Don’t have an internet connection in your hostel? No worries, there’s probably a gazillion other connections. I’ve never been to a city that has such reliable internet, for free, literally everywhere! And I’m not kidding : there are even taxis with their own wireless feed. Hello WORLD? Catch up, ’cause Sofia’s got it going on!

I absolutely fell in love with Sofia and Bulgaria and am sure to be back. There isn’t a big number of tourists yet which makes it the perfect destination of the moment! Don’t be surprised if Sofia and Bulgaria start making the top destination list of 2013.

Do you have any underrated cities you absolutely love? Share in the comment section!

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  • Jess

    Was there anywhere you would recommend visiting in Albania, other than the capital?

    • Caro_PassportandaToothbrush

      We went to Theth, in the Albanian Alps and it looked gorgeous. We didn’t get to enjoy it because of the forest fires but by now, it should all be clear!

    • Ivan Arshinkov

      Sofia is the capital of Bulgaria :)

  • dewtraveller

    Oh wow, I might just pop to Sofia from Bucharest. I love the way you describe Sofia, makes me wanna go there this weekend. And WIFI anywhere? Oh I’m so gone!

    • Caro_PassportandaToothbrush

      You definitely should! If you’re short on time, I suggest taking the Free Sofia Walking tour! We did it and it’s a great way to see all the popular sights with a local guide. Enjoy!! : )

      • dewtraveller

        Noted! Thanks for the suggestion :)

    • Mititica

      I prefer Bucharest to Sofia, it has more attractions and history and also Recycling bins :-) , but Sofia is not bad either. And if you do visit, take the daily 4pm bus from Filater Autogara, much better then the long train ride, unless u’re planning on driving.

      • dewtraveller

        I haven’t got the chance to see around Bucharest but did a little trip to the old city and it’s quite nice. I heard there are a lot of hidden gems here. Thanks for the bus info!

        • mititica

          There’s a free Bucharest walking tour every day from 6pm, starts in the Unirea Park next to the fountains and the clock.

          • TSve

            Really?!?! There is a free walking tour in Sofia leaving every day at 11:30 and also free biking tour (bikes are provided for free to tourist), as well every day.

          • Elena

            I would not like to ride a bike in Sofia. Too many potholes and the drivers are not the best.

      • http://www.facebook.com/kaloyan.kirilov.10 Kaloyan Kirilov

        Do you actually know the history of Sofia :D cuz if u do you would know that ur statemant is invalid :D

      • Someone

        Are you serious about history? Sofia has at least 2700 years of history. Hard to say the same about Bucharest :)

        • mititica

          Have u visited both cities? Or u’re just basing ur comment on what u found online? The Roman ruins in Romania are true not in the capital but there’s much more to see in Bucharest then in Sofia, ohh and the parks there have lights at nite.

      • http://www.facebook.com/milena.savcheva Milena Savcheva

        That’s a nice ad but not on the right place :) Sofia is more ancient :) sorry

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=776416513 Sam Taylor-Miller

    I also fell in love with Sofia the moment I arrived in June this year, we are definitely going back next summer, it is an amazing city, something magical about it, we will be visiting other regions when we go back too. The thing I love most is the fact that there are hardly any british tourists…I have a feeling that is all going to change soon!!

    • http://www.facebook.com/kaloyan.kirilov.10 Kaloyan Kirilov

      Well.. it is truly magical because Sofia is the an ancient city and u can see monuments from the roman empire, byzantine and etc.. ;d u should definitely visit other places in Bulgaria :) Maybe this video would be of interest for u http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oUwgGLiz0c

      • Guest

        is an * :d

    • Rada

      If you liked it in the summer, I highly recommend checking it out in the second half of Sept, when the city shakes off its summer slumber and some of the best restaurants, galleries, live music venues, and theatres open their doors again.

  • Mia

    Did you guys visit Plovdiv? Cos if not, I promise you it is some serious competition to Sofia… ;)

    • Petar

      As a citizen of Sofia I agree with Mia :)

    • asdads

      no it isnt

    • mat

      not even close baby ;) but still a nice city. If it had a good nightlife + mountain or a seashore and more places to see than the old town and the central street ok. I would say Varna have much more to offer than Plovdiv and I’m Sofia citizen btw ;)

  • http://www.facebook.com/kaloyan.kirilov.10 Kaloyan Kirilov
  • http://www.facebook.com/viktoriq2 Viktoriq Georgieva

    thank you is so amazing to see that someone like my country :) greetings from Sofia, Bulgaria :)

  • jojo

    number one country in the world, number one exporter of potassium our potassium much superior to uzbekistan potassium. our prostitutes cleanest in all europe.

  • Magdalena

    it’s so nice to hear this from a person, who doesn’t live in Bulgaria :)

  • Mike Hristov

    Hey guys, visit our awesome country u won’t make mistake.We have such a lot history, such a good climate (just don’t come in the winter hehe). Its cheap, there are a lot of good night clubs to relax and have fun. You should know that our womens are the prettiest in the world. We are open people and we are expecting you :) )))

    • tour freak

      Hahaha u sound like u r offering pretty bulgarian girls( women are the prettiest and we are open people…):D. Despite the joke, I have to say that u are not right about the winter period. The good about Bulgaria, as a destination, is that is all year around place to visit. Every season has its attractive spots to be visited. I would definetely reccomend the mountains during spring and summer.

  • http://www.facebook.com/kalina.nikolova3 Kalina Nikolova

    Next time visit Rhodope mountain, pick tiny villages, nature is gorgeous,food is all natural and If you are lucky enough to be in village of Gela when there’s bagpipe contest, you’ll reach nirvana, literally.
    Lots to expolore in here. Saw on NatGeo ancient ruins near the city of Varna, which are 8000 years old. All of the country is covered by old tracian ruins.
    In other words – enjoy the ride! It’s so much rewarding.
    P.S. Lots of us speak English, so you’ll never be lost.

  • Jason

    Also you forgot to say that it’s really cheap

  • http://www.facebook.com/teodora.kralcheva Teodora Kralcheva

    HELL YEAH! Thanks for your positive words, guys! It’s very much appreciated!
    In case you’re wondering why everybody from Bulgaria is that happy when someone praises our country (even more than usual), it’s because we’ve had quite a lot of hits on our self-esteem, both history-caused and the political/economical situation today. Also being one of the not-so-popular Eastern-European countries and taking in the fact that despite everything, we still love our home from the bottom of our hearts……… hearing foreigners praise our country sparks that fire inside of us that longs to be rekindled!

  • A separate reality

    i ve been living in Sofia all my life but the moment i fell in love was when i came back after i studied one semester in other country, again beautiful and charming but ….i just realized that the city i live in is full of nice things to do its not dangerous walking around during the night in the city center at least ,,,there is really free wii fii everywhere lots of museums gardens parks and trees :) and yes Sofia need to be felt and the night life is full power on :) there are lots of diskos pubs bla bla and of course the underground side is also impressive for a country with so much comercial pop folk culture i think most powerful is the dnb scene nowadays before few years it was full of hard techno parties legal and illegal in the industrial part in wearhouses and so on sooo whatever you need just go and get it and dont forget it really easy to pop up the underground and to have a free ride by buss or tram :D enjoy your stay :)

  • http://www.facebook.com/kaloyan.kirilov.10 Kaloyan Kirilov

    There is one big disadvantage tho ;d in Bulgaria is full with Bulgarians.. which sucks :d

    • Д.Д.

      България ако беше пълна само с българи, тук всичко щеше да бъде много по-добре бе, тъпак!

  • Bay Ganyo

    Nashiyat grad e vashata stolitza.

  • Ivo Daskalov

    You obviously enjoy good music and mentioning Them Crooked Vultures makes me wanna invite you in Canape Connection Hostel next time you visit Sofia :)

    http://www.canapeconnection.com/hostelgallery

  • Petra

    Koprivshtiza is a nice town full of traditional houses and not that far from Sofia either :)

  • Ralev

    in this case http://www.freesofiatour.com may come handy :)

  • Chris

    cool article, man. there’s actually so much more to see in Bulgaria. stay for a bit longer next time and go see the mountains or the seaside. you won’t be disappointed. cheers!

  • Ani

    We, the citizens of Sofia, think the same:) Thank you for your meaningful and good description of our city:) looking forward to meeting you again! Ani
    P.S. And yes, Plovdiv, Varna and Bourgas could be a serious competitors for your heart:) Don’t miss them if you have the chance!

  • http://www.facebook.com/kristiyan.panayotov Kristiyan Panayotov

    All in one – Sofia :)

  • Борис

    That kind of articles make me shiver. This may be due to the fact that I’m proud Bulgarian! Here’s some photos: 1. Veliko Turnovo – Tsarevets Fortress 2. Kamen briag – cliffs 3. Vitosha Mountain 4. National Palace of Culture – Sofia 5. Vitosha Mountain and Kempinski Hotel Zografski 6. Sofia – Royal Palace (now The National Gallery)

  • Manol

    I’m from Sofia and yes, food and girls are gorgeous here, that’s for sure :)

  • Juliana

    Thank you for the great words – it’s really nice to read this! =)

  • Comfortably Numb

    Chaps, as someone mentioned below, go to Plovdiv next time. May is probably best, but June or April should do as well. “Just do it”, you won’t regret it. :) I would work in Sofia and live in Plovdiv if I were in Bulgaria – simple as that.

    • Henrik

      yeah right, and travel 150 km each way every morning and evening…
      I don’t think so ;-)

      • Comfortably Numb

        Sorry, this was figuratively speaking – to convey the very general idea of what each place has to offer. You could easily spend 4 nights in Sofia and 3 in Plovdiv – which I used to do for three years when I was living there.

  • Tzvety from Sofia

    Thank you guys for the beautiful words about our city! :)

  • Krum

    Visit Bourgas… You’ll be much more amazed… :)

  • Koftigrad

    Lets get something straight don’t forget everything is relative these
    tourists came up from Albania thru bedbugs in Montenegro to Bulgaria so
    yes the area around Nat.theater is nice but there’s a heap of shit in
    Sofia from the air pollution to stray dogs to broken up pavements
    ‘Mutressi’ and ‘Mutri’, ‘Barovets’, and the serious lack of smiles and
    generally parochial closed attitude, not to mention last word syndrome
    tepid cappuccinos and food not heated properly along with just a sense
    of self loathing and a nation with a huge complex that it is exhausting
    dealing with the collective neurosis and general lack of consideration
    short sightedness etc…. look at the corruption and the fact that the
    recycling doesn’t even take place look at the hospitals the way you have
    old people sifting through bins for food and a youth population who
    want to emigrate and who buy their exam results from corrupt professors
    …I could go on its s***! …a failed nation with a people who are too
    cowed to rise up take responsibility make change and clean the system so
    that it reflects the enormous potential that Bulgaria wastes.

    • KT

      well somebody had to tell the truth sooner or later lol

      • http://www.facebook.com/julius.tenev.3 Julius Tenev

        Wholeheartedly agree. When I read the article, I was like, what the heck is this kid talking about. I mean, either he takes us for some tribal people who have never been abroad, or he enjoys seeing wretched people on the streets, people whose average monthly income tops EUR 400, people who get EUR 100 per month when they retire, people who have one of the lowest life expectancy rates in Europe. What you see in the resaturants and cafes are some filthy “businessmen” with their filthier whores and a few representatives from the ever so diminishing middel class. The other thing that made me drop my jaw is calling Sofia a pretty city. I mean seriously bro, are you on crack or somthing. Yeah, there might be the National Theater and the are around it, which by the way got renovated just a few months before, and a couple of other historic sights in that same region, that deserve one’s attention and that can be seen for precisely half an hour, but other than that, Sofia is a disgustingly dirty, unorganized, poluted, overcrowded and ugly city. Why didn’t you go to Lulin, or Nadezhda or Druzhba, or even better, I suggest you buy a property on any of those locations or even in the amazing Dragalevtzi, where the “Mutras” drive their Mercedeses and BMWs and at the same time shit in septic holes because there is no adequate sewerage. All in all, what you have written comprises an extremely limited representation of this shithole called Sofia and comes to tel that you did not get your job done at the least. Heck, if I was your employer, I would immediately let you go bro. What you have writtern is like me visiting Afghanistan, gettin high on crack, spending the night in a brothel and flying back home with a “wonderful” impression about the pretty Kabul. Bulgaria is an extremely beautiful country, but also extremely poor and underpriviliged. So yeah, if you’d like to see natural beauty come and enjoy, but if you want to see a pretty city go to Barcelona or Geneva or Vienna, but stay away from Sofia. Word

        • Reklamirajte BG

          Абе момче, ти май си на хероин. Толкова ли си глупав, че да правиш лоша реклама за столицата на държавата ти върху положителна реклама?!!? Защо ти е да плюеш срещу собствената си родина?? Знаеш ли, че лошата оценка, която хората имат за нас е заради абсолютните идиоти като теб – българи без грам акъл, които си мислят, че са по-различни от сънародниците си(да, по-тъп си, определено). Няма никакво значение каква е точната картина у нас, ти правиш извадка само на една обречена група, но тя не е единствената в БГ. Да не говорим, че никъде не е идеално!!! Мисли, преди да хулиш, загубеняк!!!

        • fm

          Загубеняци с лошо мнение за родината си и култ към чуждото са значителна част от проблема. Очевидно си се разкарал някаде по Европата, стой си там и си трай.

        • winner

          Losers like you would always put the blame on their bad luck for being born in the wrong place…

        • mitko

          Hey shithead do you think Paris, for example, is much different? Or New york, huh, or Rome? Every country, every city has its black holes and so does Sofia. Get some information about the old buildings, the architects who designed so many things in Sofia, after all it’s not called the little Vienna for nothing! Idiot…

        • AR

          I don’t understand how such idiots can exist. Shame on you Mr. Tenev.

    • http://www.facebook.com/iliana.guiotguillin Iliana Guiot-Guillin

      Why don’t you just get away and stop spoiling your life staying in Sofia, it’s not worth it … and then our city will be free of your hate. We don’t need it ! Just go and leave place for the people that love the most cracking capital in the world

    • http://www.facebook.com/iliana.guiotguillin Iliana Guiot-Guillin

      Sorry, I forgot to precise : my comment concerns “Koftigrad”

    • http://www.facebook.com/stela.ejova Stela Ejova

      unfortunately that is all true…it’s sad but true…if you’re just visiting(that’s what this blog is about) it’s great!…but living there is a struggle for most people. It’s a shame because you’re right Bulgaria has a lot of potential (the land is gorgeous all around we have it all mountains lakes the beach…)but alas going nowhere for the time being….there has been small improvements but the bigger picture ain’t pretty. My heart aches when I think about it…

      • zagrijena

        И от какъв зор го споделяш това?! Няма да получиш симпатии от “чужденците”. В техните очи, хора като теб са много зле, хулят собствената си родина!

    • zagrijena

      Не мога да разбера защо правиш лоша реклама върху положителната?! Плащат ли за това или си изключително глупав индивид, който разваля добрата дума за страната си?! Няма идеално място в света, всичко си има плюсове и минуси и ти няма нужда да изкарваш негативните на родината си!!! Да не говорим, че мутрите и мутресите са само една извадка от българското общество и не се намират само в нашата държава!!! Такива олигофрени като теб само пречат на хора като мен, учила съм в западна Европа, върнах се и сега живея в родината си и искам да й дам колкото се може повече. Ако не ти харесва тук, заминавай си, но недей да правиш лоша реклама за страната си! Само българи говорят против България, осъзнайте се идиоти!

    • zagrijena

      И от какъв зор го споделяш това?! Няма да получиш симпатии от
      “чужденците”. В техните очи, хора като теб са много зле, хулят
      собствената си родина!!!

  • Koftigrad

    Plovdiv however is gorgeous despite the chalga

  • http://twitter.com/ChrystalClear_ Chrystal-Clear

    Ohh I want to visit Sofia – everybody is saying such great things and this article just sums up its best parts! I want to go! Can’t wait to read more about your adventure – don’t leave me hanging for so long without a new post guys – it hurts me inside. :D (Ps. The comments section below is a such a random smorgasbord haha)

    • Bulgarian

      come and visit Bulgaria, you will be surprised :)

  • http://www.facebook.com/james.dooley.526 James Dooley

    I was just wondering where I will be going for my next trip. I looks as though I have found my destination. What is the best time to go?

    • Yuliana

      If you want to experience our sea shore the best time is between June-August, though we have nice ski resorts and you are more than welcome to visit us during winter.

  • from Paris

    Have you visited Plovdiv- an amazing ity, one of the oldest in the World?

  • ElysiaHostel

    Hello, when you come in Sofia, book at
    http://www.elysiahotel.com/hostel/
    Read reviews, see our happy guests in beautiful garden:)

  • http://www.facebook.com/stela.ejova Stela Ejova

    Sofia My beautiful birthplace

  • nada

    I am half Bulgarian and half Egyptian and went to many countries
    Seriously BULGARIA is the best specially SOFIA
    i fall in love with every cm in it

  • Pingback: “Passport and a Toothbrush” on Sofia « Blazing Bulgaria

  • firthisaword

    Hi guys! This is a great post! Hope you don’t mind that I’ve linked to it from my blog:

    http://blazingbulgaria.wordpress.com/2012/10/01/passport-and-a-toothbrush-on-sofia/

    I’ve also just nominated you for the Very Inspiring Blogger Award. The rules if you’ve been nominated are:
    1. Display the award logo on your blog.2. Link back to the person who nominated you.3. State 7 things about yourself.4. Nominate 15 other bloggers for this award and link to them.5. Notify those bloggers of the nomination and the award’s requirements.
    You can find a VIBA logo here:
    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iSbl2CvwqaU/UGBgJwAthwI/AAAAAAAACWU/IEUMvbzVrMs/s400/The-Very-Inspiring-Blogger-Award1.jpg

  • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=625228701 Aleksandar Savkov

    First off, thanks guys! This is very positive article and I dare say also very true. I lived in Sofia for a few years and it’s probably the best place I’ve lived in, and I’ve lived in some interesting places.

    I’ve been on a road trip around most of the Yugo republics with my friends and we were very impressed by Ljubljana. You might want to check it out. Also, sorry to hear that Montenegro was so stressful for you, we had a great time and we were all impressed by the natural beauty in this country.

  • Catherine Showell

    Am I the only one who doesn’t know about your terrible bedbug experience? What’s the story? How did you cope?

  • tour freak

    Well-written article. I have to agree with you, the place is amazing. It is not boring at all, lot of activities to do there. I lived in Holland for a year and despite the tidy houses and gardens, the place is realy boring. Most of the clubs close at 2am and most of the shops close at 5pm…Sofia doesn’t sleep, that is all i have to say ;) Екстра ни е в БГ :)

  • http://www.facebook.com/milena.savcheva Milena Savcheva

    Thank you for the great review guys and for spreading the word around other travel lovers. :) Yes we do have WiFi almost everywhere and that’s something i did realize when travelling out of my country :)

    Best regards and don’t forget to call us for a beer next time :P

  • sofyanka

    I loved your article because it is positive and it does outline some interesting, catchy and yet surprising facts for me that I wouldn’t have thought about if I were to talk about my home town. We hardly hear anyone praising our country, but the sad thing is that the ones who hardly praise it are the Bulgarians themselves. I’ve always been quite patriotic just because I feel my home, it is not about what is there that can be done, or seen, or heard and experienced, it is a mixture of them with the most essential being- what is there to be felt! I am sure that the foreign tourists will leave fascinated and with various impressions, even mixed impressions, but that they will hold an unforgettable impression for sure because it seems like foreigners look at Bulgaria and Sofia from a different perspective that some of the ordinary people here cannot understand( the ones who tend to complian unfortunately). I’ve lived In Glasgow for a year and it is a very interesting city with a lot of distinct faces which is always enriching and worth the visit, but I’ve never thought that the third biggest city in one of the most developed countries in the world UK ( Scotland is part of it) will not offer much more than an underrrated post-communistic eastern capital. People say that Glasgow has more than 90 parks and it is the greenest of all cities in Scotland, and Glaswegian parks are genuinely adorable- this is true. But in comparison to Sofia I would say that the city is grey; Sofia has many things to offer- vibrant lifestyle, lively atmosphere especially in the summer and especially in front of the Ivan Vazov Theatre where you can hear beers being opened, laughs being spread, quitars being played by handsome awkward boys, etc. ; interesting buildings, culture and traditions, a lot of museums and galleries to visit, as well as big green parks with many trees where you can go for a walk…Nice food, fresh fruits and vegetables, bulgarian alcohol, and if you get to meet the right people from us- they will be warm, open-hearted and interested in you because you come from the great West haha. Thank you for the article, it has been real pleasure for me to read it. And the comparisons with Glasgow are not outlined in order to insult someone ( I have my own love towards Glasgow and I am very happy to study there), but just to slightly express my sadness of many Bulgarians tending to always underestimate what we have, and praise other nations’ countries. When in fact, I am sure we have many more than we suppose we do that can undoubtfully force a tourist to fall inlove and keep this city forever in his soul.

  • sofyanka

    Hello, guys, another proud Bulgarian is here to say thank you!! Probably that sounds a bit over the top, I mean, to thank someone for appreciating the beauty of something that is indeed beautiful and that should be recognised as such just naturally, I still go along with lots of the comments below stating that as a post-communist country we don’t really have the chance to hear so many people praising our country or capital, just because few people have explored Bulgaria thoroughly so far.. I refer to the foreigners, of course. Our country has lots to offer, not only from a histrorical and cultural perspective, but also from an entirely social perspective- I think you should have found it interesting that most of the young people in Sofia speak English very well and are quite open when it comes to showing things in the capital around to foreigners.. If you haven’t noticed that, you can alsways do next time!! Nature in Bulgaria is also stunningly beautiful, so guys, you’d better visit Pirin mountains and Stara planina next time as well! I’m really glad that you got kind of the right impression about our capital and country, because it really is an exotic and somewhat underestimated place in terms of pretty much everything, so, thumbs up for you for not being influenced by shallow opinions! Regards from Sofia!

  • http://www.facebook.com/liliya.nikolova Лилия Огнянова

    U should go to Plovdiv next time! Lovely city, highly recommended :)

  • Dobromir Stoyanov

    It might look great for a visit, but try to live there for some time and you will find it out to be not so special and attractive… this is coming from a guy that was born and grew up there for his initial 19 years of his life. A town developed initially for maximum 850 000 residents now accommodates more than 2.5 million?! This results in high traffic, littering, etc… . Not that I complain, but that’s reality for its residents. If you really want a different picture of Sofia, go back to the years 1934- 1944. Sofia was labeled as the best town in Eastern Europe. During that period it had a very hard-working and a devoted mayor – the engineer Dr. Ivan Ivanov, the longest serving mayor in Sofia. During his period Sofia was labelled “the greenest, cleanest and organized city in Europe, also referred as “the small Viena”.

  • Dobromir Stoyanov

    There you go a video presentation of who Ivan Ivan was and did for Sofia in his administration period:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFomTgjv15Y

    Im sorry, it’s only in Bulgarian the video, but all of the Bulgarians here would appreciate it, I’m sure. :) By the way, after the communist take power of the state, he is brought to court for being a “fascist supporter of the previous regime and treason against Bulgaria” for such “crimes” as: building power-stations, roads, bridges and the Iskar dam that supplies 75 % of Sofia’s water supply… ;P

  • Z

    Varna in the summer. Black Sea resorts. Sozopol. Priceless:)

  • Annonymous

    Imenno zaradi hora kato teb mnenieto za Bulgaria e takova, kakvoto e. Ako ne moje6 da naprawi6 ni6to dobro za rodinata si, pone si draj usticata zatvorena. Sram me e, 4e qwno si mi sanarodnik…

  • http://girlmeetsbulgaria.com/ Whitney

    Great post! You’ve got yourself a new follower!

    It’s always nice to read the views of others on such a dynamic city. My husband is Bulgarian and I moved to Bulgaria last winter. We did live in his apartment in Smolyan (in the Rhodope Mountains in southern BG–which is stunning, btw), but will be living in Sofia starting next month. I’ve only been there a few times so far in our travels throughout the country, so I can’t wait to settle in and explore more of this Eastern European gem. I have a blog about my adventures in Bulgaria and bicultural marriage, if anyone would care to check it out. Just click on my photo for the link!

    W.

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  • http://twitter.com/SebastianChatov Sebastian Chatov

    I visited Sofia in July this year and it was a pleasant two-day stay. The architecture is varied – there is byzantine revival, neo-classicism, baroque revival, art nouveau, along with 60s and 70s brutalism, and modern glass-and-concrete high-rises and shopping centres on Bulgaria Boulevard. I did hear some complaints from the locals that some of the historical buildings are not in a great state of repair, but to me this is something entirely secondary – it does not detract from their charm. For those who appreciate varied styles and elegance, the central avenues will be a visual feast.
    I like what they are doing to the centre of Sofia – preserving the remnants of the ancient Roman city walls and incorporating them into the underground station network. I think the sense of history one gets from catching the local tube whilst admiring ancient brickwork or masonry is unique – Moscow has fantastic-looking underground stations, but without that encounter with antiquities. And those antiquities are everywhere – as the city is actually best explored on foot, they are something one can encounter almost everywhere one goes. I think the IV St George’s Rotunda has incomparable charm, as does the XIII century Sredets city walls (I cannot remember the street name for the life of me).
    We visited the Hagia Sofia church, which is a VI-century basilica still serving its original purpose. It is considerably more impressive than the much-famed Boyana Church just outside of Sofia. The latter is really the private chapel of a local aristocratic family from the XII century, which means it is rather small in size; the murals are impressive, but it feels small and cramped. It also has a very accommodating tour guide and a rather sour caretaker who overrides her permission to take pictures (even without a flash).
    I personally did not encounter any of the stray dogs other comments were referring to and the broken-down pavements in some parts of the city centre are a fact, but in many places they have also been relaid. There is free wi-fi almost everywhere and the internet is of the fast type (I suppose Bulgarians are well and truly “connected”). The one night we went for supper to a spot called Beso (as in Spanish for “kiss”) – it seemed very popular with the locals, the food was good, and it generally had the sort of atmosphere not unlike something one would see in Clifton Beach in Cape Town, just without the sea views. It was, in fact, overlooking a housing estate from the 1970s, a bit like the less glamorous parts outside Paddington, on the one side, and smart modern apartment buildings on the other – a sort of synopsis of where the place is coming from and where it is going. The locals have this attitude of partying hard, which you will sense way into the wee ours of the morning.
    Next evening, we went to an art cafe in Doktorski Pametnik (the Doctors’ Memorial) neighbourhood in central Sofia, which was very bohemian, served great food, and had a ridiculously efficient waitress. It was the quintessential European cafe that serves as a gathering spot for intellectuals, hipsters, the elegant, and their offspring. On that last note, the city is amazingly safe – our hostess’s little daughter of 6 just went about running in the park across from the cafe, whilst her mother’s greatest concern was that she cross the street safely.
    I can agree that it has a type of understated cool about it, as well as a certain non-chalance. A word of warning to the chaps – Bulgarians are a sexy nation; Bulgarian women know how to rock a summer dress, so be prepared for your heart to skip a beat every few minutes. I don’t want you to end up falling in love a thousand times a day.

  • glò kapoor

    thanks guys! you made me decide going there next weekend :) your description was what I was looking for :D